"Logging" and the Globalization of Surfing

The classic longboard style, or what some refer to as “logging”, has an interesting history in of itself that exemplifies globalization in the surfing world. As mentioned in the previous post, surfing originated in the Hawaiian Islands over 1500 years ago. Originally, as an ancient culture, the Hawaiian people surfed on boards that are known as “olo” boards. These wooden boards seem to demonstrate a clear link to the classic longboards, or logs, seen ridden on many breaks today. 

These classic olo boards made their way to California and other regions around the world with the ambassador himself – Duke Kahunumoku. In California especially, the boards served as templates for the creation of single-fin logs during the 50’s and the 60’s. 

A common feature of a log is its bottom contour – which has close to no rocker (banana shape; therefore, a log does not have much of a banana shape to it as a typical thruster short-board might). Having such a flat shape allowed for the board to slow down while riding on the face of the wave. This was a similar feature of the ancient Hawaiian olo boards. In the 80’s and 90’s longboards began to divert from this classic shape to a more high-performance or high-rocker shape. But, in the late 90’s until present, classic shapes have made their comeback staying true to their single fin origins of the 50’s and 60’s.

Logging is a great example of the isomorphism of the ancient Hawaiian olos, and its culture and place. Olos went out to several diverse regions of the globe to influence shapers in the process of customization by creating these classic nose riding vehicles. Presently, it has become quite common to see loggers in areas on the south shore of Oahu riding these logs. For some, this may be clearly evidenced as the re-territorialization through customization of the original wooden olos. 

For most, it is something that has occurred unknowingly. Whatever the case may be, they sure are fun to ride. 

- Bobby Poort