A Short History of Surfing

Surfing originated in the Hawaiian Islands over 1500 years ago, and Hawaiians have been defined and identified by how and where they surf ever since then.  Surfing was more than just a competitive sport or even pastime to these early hawaiians it was a culture, religion and national sport.  Everyone in the hawaiian community was involved in surfing the queen, down to the religious leaders, they all had there time in the waves.

In 1778, when captain Cook and his men landed at the Hawaiian islands the hawaiians had to fight for their surf zone (po'ina nalu).  But eventually the surfers were opressed by the colonizers and surfing was banned.  Many Hawaiians gave it up but there were a few that couldn't resist the pull of the ocean and the rush of wave riding.  Because of this oppression the surfing scene slowed in Hawaii, but was not extinct as many believed.  In the mid 1900's Hawaiians like Duke Kahanumoku and his brothers were the ones that took surfing to the California, the East coast and other countries like Australia.

During this time surfing was evolving and expanding rapidly, towards the mid 1900's, surfing was becoming not only a Hawaiian sport but a global activity.  Surfing had been diffused from its mother island and spread all around the world.  Once outside of Hawaii surfing began to evolve in different ways and we began to see more progressive maneuvers  board shapes and styles which began to change and form to best fit each individual area.  The sport of surfing began to shape the ethnoscapes in oceanside towns around the globe.  But there was still something that these people around the world still had to conquer.  Hawaii.

Mark Richards 1978

In the late 1970's many surfers began to make there way to the Hawaiian Islands, more specifically the North Shore of Oahu, as that is the birthplace of surfing, and the proving grounds for anyone that wants to "make it" in surfing.   Hawaii began to become overly populated with ambitious young surfers from Australia, South Africa and California trying to make a name for themselves.  The only problem with these transnational surfers making a statement in Hawaii was that it had already been claimed.  The local Hawaiian surfers had a lot of pride in their surfing and in the island.  Obviously when a group of foreigners show up to try to dominate there will be some resistance, and there was resistance.  The Hawaiians fought for their rights in the water.  In the end they regained their dominance in the water and have been the face of progressive surfing since.

From the history of surfing of Hawaii, there is pattern of repatriation of the sport of surfing.  Surfing was born here in Hawaii, and from outside forces was banned in the islands.  Then other countries began to learn to surf as they were taught from Hawaiians.  Then, the sport came full circle back to its birthplace and is stronger than ever here in Hawaii and continues to be the center and is continually influencing the periphery countries and surf breaks.